Conscious Choice: Love at First Bite

February 2008 | Local Food

Love at First Bite

Dishes to fall head over heels for

By Amy Pennington

Years ago, on my first visit to Paris, I fell in love with Ille Flotante. Ille wasn’t the gorgeous French man who might have just popped into your head, but rather a dessert made of light-as-air meringue floating in a pool of creamy caramel-hinted soup. It’s one of those glorious food memories I recall on occasion with near dew in my eyes and wistfulness in my voice. Words can’t describe what it tasted like at first bite — all at once it was cool, sweet, buttery, puffy. It was love at first taste.

Dishes like these are rare finds, yet this town has some undeniable tasty eats that I keep coming back to. And when that forsaken question inevitably arises, ‘What am I hungry for?’ I always have an answer. In honor of February, the month of all things love-y, here are some dishes I promise you’ll fall head over heels for.

Having worked in the food industry in Seattle for many years, it should be noted that some of the above dishes may be served up, cooked up and baked up by some of my dearest friends and maybe even a former employer or two. You can’t blame a girl for following her nose now, can you?

Scottish Oat Scone
Scones should not be doughy masses that gum up in your mouth. Gross. They should be crumbly mounds of simple ingredients, best eaten with a cup of tea. The bakers at PCC have got it just right. Sometimes I eat one just because I’m in the store, not because I’m hungry. Impossible to pass up, they are made of organic rolled oats and organic flours. The flavor of the nutty oats really shines through. It’s the perfect sweet for that romantic breakfast-in-bed.

PCC Natural Markets, Fremont – 600 N 34th Street (206) 632-6811

Huevos Ahogados
You’ll win bonus points for suggesting this place on your next lunch date. Walking into Señor Moose, you know you’re in for a good meal just by looking at the kitchen staff. Fronted by el jefe and his team, these boys turn out some of the most delicious Mexican food in town. The menu lists entrees by their Mexican state of origin, a further nod to authenticity. Everything I have ever eaten here has rocked my palate, but my absolute favorite dish is the spicy and warming Poblano Sopa. A hearty bowl of tomato-scented spicy broth, hand-roasted poblano peppers and a soft poached egg floating on top—it’s the perfect lunch any day of the week. Be mindful of weekends, though — the menu is abbreviated (no soup!) and the lines are long.

Señor Moose, Ballard - 5242 Leary Avenue NW (206) 784-5568

Grilled T-Bone Steak
When the T-bone steak at Tavolàta arrives at your table, you can’t help but look twice [edit Served in Flintstone-sized proportions, this slab is cooked to order and presented on a massive platter—a robust hunk of meat that is best shared. It’s not often that I have a big fat craving for a steak, but when the dinner bell is ringing, this T-bone is a sure bet. It’s the perfect plate-for-two special.

Tavolàta, Belltown - 2323 2nd Avenue (206) 838-8008

Plin
Made in the Piedmontese tradition, these pillowy little pasta are one of the most surprisingly tasty dishes you will eat in a long, long time. The menu reads simply “filled with roast pork and chard,” barely hinting at the flavor explosion in store. Made by the very capable and loving hands of resident pasta-maker, Martha Francis, these delicate ravioli are packed with milk-braised pork and chard and then topped with a healthy sheen of melted butter, fresh sage leaves and parmesan. Instead of dreaming about Mr. or Ms. Right, your nights will be filled with visions of these delicious morsels.

Palace Kitchen, Downtown - 2030 5th Avenue (206) 448-2001

Walnut Levain
When I need something for a cheese plate, I buy this bread. When I want to eat toast slathered with jam on Sunday morning, I buy this bread. When I want to give a tasty hostess gift, I buy this bread. Dense dark dough scented with sour and fecund with walnuts, it’s one of the most delicious things I’ve ever eaten. Heaven in a loaf, even when you eat it alone.

Columbia City Bakery, Columbia City – 4865 Rainier Ave. S. (206) 722-9138

Pickled Plate
There is truly nothing I love more than a pickle or a preserve. Maybe it’s the process of canning and extending the season that romances me? Maybe it’s the tangy bite that only vinegar can impart? When my own pantry stocks are low, or I’ve been plum lazy and haven’t put anything up, I know I can head to Boat Street Café for the Pickled Plate of seasonal vegetables and fruit. Served on a large platter currently overflowing with the likes of pickled Seckel pear with cinnamon and bay leaf and curried pickled turnips, it’s a great pre-dinner nosh along with a glass of champagne. Oh la la. Spare yourself the hassle this season, and enjoy the fruits of Boat Street’s labor, instead.

Boat Street Café, Belltown – 3131 Western Avenue (206) 632-4602

Amy Pennington has several loves in her life: her Le Creuset pots; her offset spatula; her heirloom barley; her jars of flour; and most importantly, her secret stash of vanilla beans.

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