Conscious Choice Seattle: Fresh Mex

October 2006 | Conscious Dining

Fresh Mex

El Camino in Fremont serves up lots of vegetables, organic steak and tasty drinks

By Andrew Mulholland

I feel a bit like the I-5 motorist who squeezes around a bunch of cars about to pile up. At least that’s what I thought browsing through what Seattle residents and visitors are saying about the service at El Camino.

“I find the wait staff is overworked but polite,” said one Seattle resident going by “Belltown Foodie.” “Ideally, all I want from them is to take my order in a timely fashion, get it right back, bring it to me at the appropriate temperature and check back once or twice to see if I need anything. This they do well and I’ve always received smiles.”

“I have been to El Camino several times and each time the wait staff was rude,” countered one local man. “The host was overtly disrespectful.”

Uh, not on my visit. The host promptly found us a table for four on a busy late summer night and didn’t seem anything but efficient and pleasant. We were happy to scoot into our seats and order the superb margaritas.

That’s one point of near consensus about this Fremont spot. It serves some of the best margaritas in Seattle. Plus, everyone raves about tostones de platano macho con guacamole (salted, deep-fried plantain chips served with guacamole and fresh salsa, $8), including our table. We soon ordered a second basket of the chips and didn’t flinch at paying an extra two dollars for them. Stopping for this snack and a margarita qualifies as a delicious idea, especially on days when the patio is open.

We ordered a number of dishes on what some Web contributors call everything from “spendy” to “overpriced.” The mussels ($12) were Penn Cove variety pan-fried in a tomato, garlic and ancho chile cream sauce. Bottom line? Yum, and a portion that is easily shared.

The ensalada de betabell ($7) features romaine lettuce hearts and organic golden beets is tossed with poblano chiles, avocado, red onion and queso fresco and dressed with a lime vinaigrette. It all worked beautifully. Another diner at the table was quite happy with her Caesar salad ($7).

Our group loved the fish tacos (market price) that come with the day’s fresh catch and shrimp. They are served with black beans, green rice, cabbage slaw and two kinds of salsa. We found them flavorful and satisfying.

The bistec estilo capitalino was wonderful. The dish is thin slices of grilled, organic, marinated steak served with cheese enchiladas (not too heavy-handed) in a salsa coloridita, which can be spicy, the menu warns. The salsa coloridita is a smoky sort of mole. The dish is 18 bucks, which bothers some diners but others cite the “huge portions” and “makes me happy every time” results.

My take? Hey, how often can you get organic beef (repeat: organic) in a Mexican restaurant and have enough for two or to put together a knockout lunch or dinner the next day? By the way, you can get the same organic beef with the tacos carne asada ($14) accompanied by Mexican rice and red beans, plus four cheeses, cilantro and onion mixed with the steak.
Our waiter was the quiet type but attentive enough, and not bothered when we changed up our order a bit. The menu has several other intriguing offerings and always has a vegetarian special or two of the season. In fact, veggies are at the heart of many dishes.

Some Internet foodies will debate the authenticity of the food, which is best described as interior Mexico. But El Camino still is a true find for any conscious diners looking for a “cleaner food” Mexican restaurant.

Andrew Mulholland is a sucker for a good mole and any Mexican restaurant that serves up fresh and not overcooked vegetables.

Nora West, our food mentor and dining critics, is on special assignment.

Recommend this page to a friend

Top Ten pages recommended to friends: