Conscious Choice Seattle: Recharge and Romance

February 2006 | Local Food

Recharge and Romance

A local favorite on any best restaurants list, Assaggio provides silace and scrumptious food

By Nora West

Over Christmas and New Year’s I had my share of luscious, fanciful meals about town. It always seems that part of the merriment during the holidays is to meet friends or family in a cozy place, resplendent with the lights and garland of the season.

It dawned on me that they are often the same kinds of places we look to in February to escape the doldrums and even possibly celebrate the most romantic day.

Assaggio is that kind of place. Even though it is well known and been around since 1993, I never mind reminding myself and others that it is there for the taking.

It happens to be the favorite place of someone very close to me, so I get there often enough. But I never tire of it and I have never been disappointed.

Mauro Golmarvi as a hands-on owner is affable and friendly as he greets patrons coming in, at their tables or as they leave.

The atmosphere is wonderful. High ceiling, beautiful and interesting art and murals, and intimate table arrangments. I have sat in several areas of the restaurant and have always liked my table.

There is a vibrancy to the place and a high energy, without feeling too close to each other or hearing too much noise.

One weekday night I was there last summer when a bride and groom sat at a table of eight or nine, attending their own party while other patrons dined around them.

The food has always been the excellent combination of high quality raw ingredients skillfully prepared in an authentic Italian style. Everything seems to brim with freshness.

The salads I have tried are the classic Caesar ($8), insalata mista ($6)—simple greens with a homemade balsamic vinaigrette and the elaborate insalata di Francesca, which includes apples, pears, gorgonzola, pistachios and greens ($9).There is also a tempting radicchio salad with pancetta or arugula with prosciutto. (both salads are $10).

The minestrone, chuck full of vegetables and flavor, is another favorite ($8). The sauteed calamari in marinara ($9) is tender and satisfying, as are several other starters such as fagioli, antipasto, clams oreganato or bruschetta.

The bread is always a huge temptation and all this is before we have even reached any entrée choices or seasonal specials. Obviously, as you would expect, the pastas are superb. I have eaten the simple but scrumptious capellini (angel-hair with sun-dried tomatoes, $) and linguine dishes to the more substantial ravioli with sea scallops ($17) or rigatoni pepperonata ($16) with Italian sausage, red bell peppers, tomato and cream.

I also love the Bolognese, just a classic meat sauce perfectly done. There are usually enticing specials, often fresh fish done in a variety of ways. Someone with me recently had osso bucco that was succulent and fragrant.

I have ordered pizza ($14) as a starter here and always been delighted, other than eating too much before my main entrée has arrived. The pizza quattro stagioni is topped with prosciutto, olives, mushrooms and artichoke hearts. It is delicious.

I guess I’ve eaten myself through much of the menu. The hardest thing is usually controlling the eyes too-big-for-the-stomach urge.

The service here is friendly, comptent, efficient and accessible. What else can you ask for?

The wine selections, even by the glass, are perfect and not just run of the mill. Some thought and research has gone into this part of the planning.

Overall, I can see why people find Assaggio to be one of their favorite places and why it continually finds its way onto Seattle’s best restaurant lists.

Any season, any time of year, the ingredients for your meal here with reflect that. If you are searching your mind for the romantic February place to go, look no farther.

Nora West reviews restaurants and writes about food for Conscious Choice.

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