Conscious Choice Seattle: Menu Mentor

December 2005 | Local Food

Menu Mentor

Choice words and choice picks from our food writer, Nora West

By Nora West

Everybody has an opinion about the best places to eat. But not everyone can tell you great places to eat that feature both delicious and healthy foods.

It’s the rare person and writer who can do both—and precisely we refer to regular Evergreen Monthly contributor Nora West as our “food mentor.” During 2005, she has once again delivered the good information along with the good food. To celebrate this month’s second annual Evvies,
here are selected winning thoughts from Nora’s past year of “Local Food” columns.

Café Paloma
93 Yesler Way, Seattle, 206-405-1920

No one would probably ever confuse me with a bonafide foodie. Not because I don’t appreciate the art and effort of fussy, fancy dishes, but because I generally prefer fresh, well-prepared and even simple, rustic meals.

This brings me to Café Paloma, where I recently had a few lunches. Mediterranean cuisine epitomizes to me what I am seeking in fresh, unfussy food that leaves me feeling refreshed, nourished and generally guilt-free. Paloma serves up a variety of options, all with the common denominator of fresh ingredients.

Tamarind Tree Provincial Vietnamese
1036 S. Jackson, Seattle, 206-860-1404

This gem of a place is nestled in a corner of a shopping plaza/strip mall next to a bustling Vietnamese market. There is a little outside café area reminiscent of a something you would picture on the streets of Saigon, backing up to a pleasant wall fountain.

The interior as you step in the door take s you immediately away from the bustle of the too-busy, tightly-packed parking lot you just struggled through. The walls are tangerine and the lighting is subdued. The tables are tasteful although ours a bit too close to our neighbors. The room is inviting. A welcome relief of calm washed over me.

Bastyr University Cafeteria
14500 Juanita Dr. NE, Kenmore, 425-602-3018

The cafeteria is open to the public and absolutely worth the drive.

The soups de jour were miso and split pea—both delicious. A wonderful salad bar resplendent with fresh mixed greens, baby spinach, beets, carrots, broccoli, cucumbers, hearts of palm, peas, steamed kale, hard-boiled eggs, sunflower seeds, garbanzo beans, tofu and more, was alone worth the trip. There were at least six dressing choices, including bleu cheese, all apparently made fresh on the premises. I tried the tahini and the miso. Both were excellent, the miso featuring a pleasant tang.

The food, including hot items of the day, is priced by the pound, which is such a smart, sensible way to eat (salad is $5.25, soup $3.45 and entrees $4.50, all per pound minus the weight of the container). The beauty of this ingenious setup allows you to take a bit of this and a dab of that—trying everything if you like. I saw one student take half a bowl of soup. You can mix and match yourself into one of the healthiest yet satisfying meals you’ve had in a long time.

Sofrito Rico
2320 NW Market St., Seattle, 206-789-0516

Sofrito Rico is a find. It is bright with red and yellow walls yet cozy, in the way a huge place can never be. Although there are not many tables they are spacious ones.

There is an ample selection of entrees but not so many as to overwhelm. We started with empanadas . This flaky, delicious dough stuffed with the filling of your choice (vegetarian, shrimp, ground beef, potatoes or cheese) was a fine start.

One of Sofrito’s soups and salads combined with an empanada or two would be satisfying, but still leave you able to tackle whatever your afternoon project or schedule might be. Did I do that?

Nope. I had to go for plato principales section of the menu, the whole experience, summer afternoon or not. We choose the pollo guisado, which is amazing. Falling off the bone, the tender slow-cooked chicken is fricasseed with sofrito (peppers, garlic, onions, cilantro and other optional ingredients made into a wet seasoning or base) and potatoes in a tomato sauce, served with rice, beans tostones and a wedge of avocado. I am salivating at the memory.

Nora West is Evergreen Monthly’s dining critic.

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