Conscious Choice Seattle: Unfussy Cuisine

October 2005 | Local Food

Unfussy Cuisine

Simple equates to refreshing, nourishing in Pioneer Square

by Nora West

No one would probably ever confuse me with a bonafide foodie. Not because I don’t appreciate the art and effort of fussy, fancy dishes, but because I generally prefer fresh, well-prepared and even simple, rustic meals.

A friend of mine who happens to be fabulous chef and a Frenchman has always bestowed the virtues of “less is more” in his everyday cooking. When I say everyday, I mean the lunch he throws together for a few friends or the barbecue he hosts for a few dozen. This doesn’t mean when he prepares the special occasion dinners, which he cooks regularly, that he doesn’t pull out all the stops. He does, and the results are amazing and almost too beautiful to eat.

Almost, I said.

This brings me to Café Paloma, where I recently had a few lunches. Mediterranean cuisine epitomizes to me what I am seeking in fresh, unfussy food that leaves me feeling refreshed, nourished and generally guilt-free. Paloma serves up a variety of options, all with the common denominator of fresh ingredients. Starting with the obvious–humus ($5.50), which I order every time, is creamy but not too much so. It offers the right blend of lemon, garlic and tahini.

The tabouleh salad ($5.50) is well-balanced with a nice blend of bulgar, tomatoes, parsley and spices. The babaghanouj ($6) is flavorful and especially nice as part of the meze plate ($8.50), allowing you to pick all three if you please.

The meze is also served with Kalamata olives, which are delicious and goes to show you that not all olives were created equal. That’s why details make the difference.

The salads are great. I ordered the borek (spinach, feta and carmelized onions baked in a version of spinach pie, $7.50), which is served with a side salad. It also came with a little wedge of watermelon that was sweet, ripe and a thoughtful edible garnish.

The salad was fresh, greens and tomatoes dressed with a very good lemon herb dressing., Sounds easy enough, but it was perfect.

In fact, couple next to me ordered different salads and couldn’t stop exclaiming about the beauty and tastiness. One was the salad with boneless chicken baked in a savory tomato wine sauce served atop the aforementioned fresh greens with a red onion and pomegrante molasses and pear ($7.50). The other salad was the fresh greens with gorgonzola, walnut and currants tossed with lemon vinaigrette ($7.25).

Lest you think I was eavesdropping, the tables here are a bit snug. You are fairly close to your neighbor, but it doesn’t offend much because it is a bustling, pleasant room.

Pita bread is another measure, to me, of an exceptional Mediterranean experience. It’s truly one of those perfect foods when done right. Café Paloma grills its pita and does it right.

Several grilled panini sandwiches are offered, all of which are hearty and served with a side salad $7.25 to $7.50). Among the choices: eggplant, gorgonzola, prosciutto, chicken.

Café Paloma offers beer, wine, fresh squeezed lemonade and excellent espresso drinks among its beverages. I enjoyed an exceptional Americano on one visit and did indulge on a piece of baklava ($3.50) after resisting a time before. I have always favored a Middle Eastern-type baklava to the Greek version because it is less sweet and cloying with more ability to taste the wonderful pistachio nutiness. Too bad for me, I might have to add a touch of guilt on that Mediterranean experience.

Nora West is Evergreen Monthly’s dining critic.

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