October 2005 | Feature Story
Got Organic Milk? Maybe Not!
By Jim Slama
When you pick up organic milk at your local grocery, you probably have visions of happy cows frolicking in a beautiful pasture, chewing their cuds and basically hanging out.
You may be surprised to learn that this may not necessarily be the case.
In recent months there has been a raging controversy in the organic world concerning organic dairy farms. There is concern that some large-scale, organic dairy operations are currently not giving their cows access to pasture but instead keeping them confined in relatively small areas. In essence this is the same industrial model that rules the conventional dairy world where factory farms are the norm.
Last month the National Organic Standards Board (NOSB) created a new guidance document that would revise organic standards and mandate access to pasture for dairy cows. (The NOSB is authorized by the United States Department of Agriculture ((USDA)) to maintain the integrity of organic standards.) Yet at the same meeting, the USDA did not allow the rule changes.
Evergreen Monthly spoke with three of the story’s most important players:
Cornucopia Institute
Mark Kastel of the Cornucopia Institute, a Wisconsin-based farm policy research group, created a wave of controversy and media attention in the organic dairy industry in February when he filed complaints with the USDA against Horizon Organic, Aurora Dairy and a farm owned by Case Vander Eyk, Jr., alleging that they were engaging in factory farming operations. The Institute’s complaints asked the USDA to investigate whether these three farms were violating the law by milking a large number of cows in a relatively small setting without legitimate access to pasture, yet still labeling the milk organic.
On large-scale organic dairy farms: Large-scale, factory dairies masquerading as organic farms are not good for anyone. They threaten the environment, they don’t treat workers well, the cows are kept in confinement and the milk produced lacks some of the beneficial components found in milk from legitimate organic farms. In addition, if these mega-dairies proliferate they will ultimately erode consumer confidence in the organic label. There is no place for these operations in organic agriculture. I hope the USDA takes the steps to protect consumers from unknowingly purchasing milk from them.
Let’s look at the Horizon facility in Idaho. Forty-two hundred milking cows means there are probably well over 5,000 total when you count young animals. It’s impossible to graze 5,000-plus cows on the few hundred acres Horizon utilizes. For that many cows, in the arid West, they would literally need thousands of acres not hundreds.
On the USDA: Cornucopia is concerned the USDA blocked efforts by the National Organic Standards Board to close the loopholes that allow factory-farmed milk to be labeled organic. The Board has been working on this for over five years. Since there is about to be a large transition of members on the NOSB, on the surface, it seems like they might be waiting for a new Board to be in place so they can water down the recommendations.
Horizon Organic
Kevin O’Rell is vice president of research and development for Horizon Organic and the vice chair of the National Organic Standards Board. Horizon Organic sells more organic milk than any company in the world. The company is owned by Dean Foods, the nation’s largest dairy processor and distributor. In his dual role as Horizon employee and NOSB member, O’Rell for the first time went on the record about this issue.
On Horizon Organic: “Horizon Organic has been a pioneer in organics and is a leader in giving consumers access to high quality organic milk. More than 70 percent of our milk comes [on contract] from 350 family farms. We are in the process of adding another 100 family farms to keep up with growing demand. Horizon Organic is responsible for transitioning hundreds of thousands of conventional acres to organic across the country, including 70,000 acres in Idaho alone.”
On its 4,200 head dairy operation in Idaho: “ Today, this farm is in full compliance with current organic standards. We are also redesigning the facility to insure that the cows will have access to pasture by adding hundreds of acres of additional certified organic land for them to graze on. When this transition is complete, this will be a model facility for large-scale organic milk production.”
On the NOSB and its proposed rule changes for dairy: “ Horizon strongly supported the rule change that mandates access to pasture for all dairy cows. As vice chair of the NOSB, I was surprised that the USDA delayed the adoption of the new regulations but understand the concern to get rules correct so they stand up to the rulemaking process. I believe the new rule recommendations from the NOSB will be addressed by the spring meeting.”
Whole Foods Market
Whole Foods Market Chairman John Mackey has built his company into the largest organic retailer in the world. In recent years he has led an effort within the company to create stronger standards for the care of animals. Because of Whole Foods’ buying power, it is likely this effort will have a major impact on the entire organic and natural meat and dairy industries.
On the NOSB Pasture Recommendations for Organic Dairy: “ This will close glaring loopholes that have allowed some companies to use factory farming style operations to produce organic milk. Our customers want real organic milk that comes from healthy cows that are raised on pastures, as dairy cows have been traditionally raised. It is imperative that this directive becomes law as soon as possible.”
On Large Scale Organic Dairies: “ Large-scale organic dairy farms with 4,000 to 6,000 cows that don’t have proper access to pasture are not what Whole Foods customers think of when they buy organic milk. In my opinion, even if they currently meet federal organic standards, these are factory-farming practices and they have no place in organic agriculture.”
On Factory Farms: Twenty-five years from now, I believe that factory farming in the United States will probably be illegal. First we have to create more compassionate alternatives. As we create a high-standard alternative, people will be willing to look at factory farms more closely. They will move out of denial when they understand that there is an alternative.
Our descendants will probably look back at this time with horror at the way we treated livestock just as we now look back with horror to the way our ancestors exploited Native Americans, blacks and women. Animals may not have equal value to human beings, but they are sentient beings that can feel pain and suffer. I believe that they deserve a decent life and as pain free a death as possible.
For more information:
www.ams.usda.gov/nop
www.cornucopia.org
www.wholefoods.com
www.horizonorganic.com
Jim Slama is the founder of familyfarmed.org, which builds markets for local organic farmers.
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