May 2005 | Local Food

Dog day afternoons

Our resident food mentor recalls painful hot dog memories and finds painless pleasure in vegetarian Cyber Dogs

By Nora West

When I was a little girl, I used to get debilitating headaches an hour or so after consuming hot dogs. It happened just about every Saturday afternoon, when my mom would boil up a big pot of the delectable dogs as a weekly luncheon treat.

Even as a first-grader, I started to make the connection, like a Pavlovian dog: “Hot dogs give me headaches.” I am abashed to admit it, but this did not stop me from eating them. I liked them too much.

I even refrained from telling my mom for fear she would stop making them. Now that is a bit masochistic, don’t you think? Just for the love of a good dog.

Eventually (although it took years), I figured out it was the nitrates, preservatives and who knows what else that caused the chemical brainstorms in my head. I haven’t eaten hot dogs, no matter how tempting, in years. My decision is for many reasons, headaches notwithstanding.

Until recently, that is, upon my first trip to Cyber-Dogs, the “Frisky Internet Café” at 9th and Pike (check out their website).

This is not a big place, but it’s cozy and has Internet access (10 cents a minute, 20 minutes free with purchase of $2 or more, $40 for a 10-hour Internet card). It offers espresso drinks, fruit “schmoozies,” hot chocolate and an assortment of muffins, cookies, etc. (many are vegan).

The 1985 Live Aid concert was playing on the TV during my visit. I was mesmerized by a 20-year-younger Jack Nicholson and Bette Midler introducing Phil Collins, who had just flown over on the Concorde to play back-to-back Live Aid concerts.

So grab a coffee to go, check your email, watch the show (whatever it may be) or go for the main attraction: the dogs.

Of course, these are not your average dogs. These are superior-quality, delicious 100-percent vegetarian dogs.

For me, veggie dogs and veggie burgers are all about the fixings. Start with a nice whole-wheat bun (which all Cyber-Dogs do), then add a varied assortment of toppings and a quite satisfying sandwich emerges.

One member of our party ordered the “Plain Jane” ($3) which is a Loma Linda Big Frank on a whole wheat bun with absolutely nothing else. She enjoyed it, but this version is definitely not for me.

I ordered the “Dead Beet” ($6.25) which comes with a borscht-like sauce (beets, walnuts, spices) smothering the dog along with cucumber chunks, tomatoes and green onions. Now, that’s more like it. A perfect tribute to the Russian owner.

We also tried the Wiener Dog Schnitzel ($4.50), which is a Tofurkey-brand sausage served with sauerkraut and onions. I added dijon mustard. It was good, with enough spice to taste like a sausage served with the trimmings of a brat.

One member of our group ordered a “Plain Jane” and added ketchup. A hot dog travesty, but what the heck—I guess he enjoyed it.

Some other temptations: the “Greek Goddess” served up with hummus, Parmesan cheese, avocado and veggies ($6.25); the “Laika” doused in eggplant and zucchini sauce ($6.25); the Doggi Lama with house spinach sauce and veggies ($6.25) and the Doga Lisa accessorized with pesto and Parmesan, then baked ($6.25).

There are all kinds of variations and toppings so you can create your own favorite. Toppings include avocado, vegetarian bacon, sauerkraut, cheese, salsa and vegetables, which are fresh and crisp (most toppings are 75 cents or $1, avocado is $1.75).

Beware, many of the specialty dogs are unwieldy. This is not a bad thing, but it does pose a considerable problem if you want to walk along the street and eat. The solution: Order the more manageable “Walking Dog” ($4), which has only a spoonful of sauce but is still plenty of food.

I don’t know after our trip which one is my favorite. The young woman serving us was pleasant, efficient and enthusiastic. She loves the Laika. I’ll just have to try them all as the mood strikes—no more Saturday afternoon headaches for me.




Nora West is Evergreen Monthly’s dining critic. She lives and eats with pleasure in the Puget Sound area.

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