Conscious Choice Seattle: Tale of Two Noodle Shops

April 2005 | Local Food

Tale of Two Noodle Shops

When nothing but an Asian bowl will do, this pair fixes on your fix

by Nora West

When we experience day after temperate day of sunny weather, a big bowl of steaming noodles may not be the temptation it is when chill and dampness linger in the air. Nevertheless, Seattle being what it is (a hotbed of Asian fare), the urge can always be sated, come rain or shine.

Two spots come to mind for an always-reliable noodle fix.

The first is Super Bowl Noodle House in the Roosevelt neighborhood (814 NE 65th St., 206-526-1570). It has just about any combo of noodles you desire. Rice noodles, egg noodles, clear noodles, chicken, pork, shrimp, fish balls, tofu, mild, spicy. You name it, they’ve got it.

I recently lunched on the Green Lake noodles ($6.25, rice or egg noodles with chicken, pork, fish balls, fried wontons, bean sprouts, green onions and cilantro). But I also love the Super Bowl noodles ($7.50), chicken, shrimp and squid marinated in “special spices” and served in a clear broth with clear noodles, spinach, Napa cabbage, celery and green onions.

Other great options here: I tried and enjoyed the substantial Heart & Soul noodles ($6.50), Chinese long-life noodles in a spicy green curry sauce with chicken, Chinese eggplant, bell pepper and basil. The tangy curry juxtaposed with the slightly sweet eggplant is just right.

The M-80 noodles ($6.50) are not for the faint of heart, with the same basic ingredients of the above dishes but with more spice.

The “fresh” egg rolls ($4.50) are exactly that, refreshing rolls of rice paper filled with bean sprouts, spinach, cucumber and tofu and served with a very good peanut sauce. You can get Chinese sausage on the side if you wish, but it is perfectly good without it.

There are a few rice dishes that look equally good as they waft past. There are at least three curry dishes available when a broth-based dish just doesn’t hit the mark.

The portions are hearty and I find myself satisfied, probably a tad earlier than my eating stops.

Prices are very reasonable, and service is usually prompt and efficient. On every occasion, the host has been gracious and helpful. One of my favorite things about the place is its casual, comfortable atmosphere. One can happily sit alone, picking from the wide selection of magazines or newspapers on the wall rack. You can while away an hour munching on whatever noodle delight strikes your fancy. If you patronize Whole Foods Market, then Super Bowl Noodle House is the perfect place to make your grocery list and fortify yourself before the week’s shopping.

As for the second spot for an always-reliable noodle fix, I knew that the Noodle Studio on Capitol Hill (209 Broadway E, 206-325-6277) had made some changes a while ago, but I only recently made my way over for lunch. It is a quite pleasant and pretty room.

The warm brown and gold tones and lovely tapestries and wall hangings immediately transport you to a more serene place as you walk in the door from bustling Broadway. The fabulous low-hung light fixtures, individual to each table, emit a comfortable intimacy that makes the place glow, even at the lunchtime hour. I imagine it is nicely romantic during the evening.

Noodle Studio boasts seven types of noodles made from rice, wheat, and bean thread, prepared in almost any way you wish. There are many specialties, including deep-fried trout topped with vegetables and roasted cashews (market price). There are at least six curry dishes ($7.95 to $8.95) and several salads that sound inviting. One such salad is the Som Tum, spicy papaya with dried shrimp and peanuts, served with sticky rice ($5.95).

The fresh salad roll ($4.95) made of rice paper wrapping noodles, carrots, cucumbers, other vegetables, bean sprouts, basil, etc.) is served with the house hoisin sauce. It is great.

I ordered ginger stir-fry with prawns ($7.95), which was prepared with ample prawns and plenty of vegetables and, most importantly, has the distinct taste of ginger without being overpowering.

The pad Thai ($6.95 for beef, pork or tofu; add $2 for prawns and $4 for seafood) is also good, with lots of fresh vegetables sprinkled through the dish. The soups are flavorful and offered in wide variety, from hot and sour to wonton to sukiyaki.

Noodle Studio’s menu is substantial and difficult to choose from. It lends itself to very traditional, familiar choices, but serves more exotic leanings too. It would be fun to try everything, but it would take several visits or several friends to experiment with you.

Nora West is Evergreen Monthly’s dining critic. She lives and eats with pleasure in the Puget Sound area.

Recommend this page to a friend

Top Ten pages recommended to friends: