Photo by D. Weiss
March 2005 | Local Food
Vegetarian Varietal
Don’t let anyone tell you a veggie café doesn’t offer choices. This Roosevelt regular disproves the theory — and deliciously at that
by Nora West
Sunlight Café is one of those places that if caught on an ambivalent day, you might just drive your nice waitperson a bit nuts. This was true for me on a recent visit.
My body said it was still early enough for breakfast (it is served until 4 p.m.), but lunch was already being served (anytime after 10 a.m.). Which did I want? Did I want something spicy or sweet? If I did eat lunch, did I want salad or a burger? If I wanted a burger, did I want a nutburger, tempeh burger or portobello burger?
You get the picture. Some days and some menus are just like that. Add in a healthy appetite and everything just sounds too tempting and too good to choose.
I finally decided on the sesame crunch waffle ($4.50, made with whole-wheat pastry flour) served with blueberries (95 cents extra) and organic Vermont maple syrup. Other waffle add-ons include yogurt (75 cents), whipped cream (95 cents) or banana slices (95 cents).
When I made my choice the waiter endorsed it, saying it was both good and filling. I imagine he was probably hoping I wouldn’t change my mind. He was right on both counts: the waffle was tasty and more than ample.
My dining companion had Sunlight Huevos Rancheros ($4.95), corn tortillas topped with black beans, eggs and salsa. He added avocado ($1.50). He too had been indecisive, but was a happy guy when breakfast appeared. He said he had made the right choice, and he especially raved about the creamy texture of the still-firm black beans.
Service is attentive and very prompt. No waiting around if you are in a hurry. I heard at least one staff member singing along to Stevie Wonder as he/she worked. Nice voice, whoever you are.
The atmosphere is casual, pleasant and, well (at least when I’ve been in there), as sunny and bright as its name suggests. I like the fact that Sunlight Café can be many things to many people. I popped in one day for just a latte ($1.95) and piece of gingerbread before grocery shopping at Whole Foods Market across the street. No one seemed to mind it was all I ordered.
Someone knows how to bake too. It was moist, yummy gingerbread without a speck of whipped cream that so often is the signature topping. I’m sure I could have had it that way, but it was perfect as it was. The sweet potato pie another day was light and delicious.
The dessert list the day we had breakfast boasted oatmeal-raisin cookies, apple crunchy-top pie, maple walnut pie, tofu cheesecake with blueberry topping (whipped cream if you please), brownies…
But back to the main menu. You will not go wrong with the nutburger ($6.50 à la carte, $8.75 with soup or salad). It is hearty and scrumptious with good flavor, both nutty and mildly spicy. Served on a dense seven-grain bun, it is a patty of roasted nuts, rice and vegetables topped with melted cheddar (if you like), onion and tomatoes. A lunchtime nutburger will easily hold you over until dinner.
The appetizer of sweet potato cakes with tofu ($4.25) is quite good—light, just the right crispiness—with a lively garlic-ginger sauce for dipping. It is a substantial dish (two cakes) and good to share.
The salad choices are many. Organic mixed greens ($5.25 regular, $7.50 large) come with shredded carrots, cabbage, celery and your choice of dressing; try the house lemon tahini. Brown rice salad ($6.95, 75 cents extra to substitute organic mixed greens) is lettuce, assorted vegetables, avocado, broccoli, cauliflower and seeds topped with organic brown rice. Sunlight makes it own dressings (a 12-ounce takeout bottle of the lemon tahini is $4.25), including a special dressing of the day.
Sunlight has black bean burritos ($7 à la carte, $9.25 with soup or salad), polenta with black beans ($5.50/$$7.75) steamed vegetables with tofu and brown rice ($7.75 regular, $9.50 large; you can add peanut sauce, lemon tahini or cheese for 95 cents/$1.25)—and I haven’t even mentioned dinner yet.
Dinner is available after 4 p.m. and includes a few pasta dishes, risotto and roasted vegetable lasagna. I haven’t made it here for dinner but wouldn’t hesitate. Sunlight Café serves about a half-dozen additive-free beers plus a few wines, including organic merlot. Beverages include full espresso bar, teas, juices and smoothies (some items are prepared seasonally).
There is a full array of available side dishes from soup to hummus to homemade bread ($1.10 or 75 cents for the heel). My companion was ready to take home a side of organic brown rice ($1.95) with lemon tahini (75 cents) to be part of his dinner. Don’t ever let anyone tell you a vegetarian café doesn’t have enough variety. Sunlight has something to please just about anyone—morning, noon or night.
Sunlight Café, 6403 Roosevelt Way NE, Seattle, 206-522-9060. Open daily 8 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Breakfast served until 4 p.m.; lunch starts at 10 a.m., dinner at 4 p.m. Service: Friendly, attentive, patient. Noise level: Conversation-friendly, quiet to read or just think.
Nora West is Evergreen Monthly’s dining critic. She lives and eats with pleasure in the Puget Sound area.
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