Conscious Choice Seattle: Fresh-Packed

November 2004 | Local Food

Fresh-Packed

This Thai choice is full of customers and delicious lunch combos. And don’t pass on the spring rolls

by Nora West

I have a friend who absolutely will not go into a restaurant that is empty or near empty. I find this behavior a bit extreme and tease him about it. But he insists that people and activity are the initial signs of a worthy establishment.

Of course, there are always variables (time of day, time of year, trendiness, events in the area), yet all kidding aside, there is a shred of truth to my friend’s protestations.

In Belltown on a weekday at 1 p.m. recently, this was all a moot point. I was amazed to find Jai Thai not only full to capacity but with two or three tables of diners waiting to be seated.

Now one of the things I would like to consistently do is write about a place no one has ever heard of, introducing readers to a brand-new spot. The reality, however, is I often find myself in a place that has been around a while, people know about it, and I simply remind you that it is there if you haven’t patronized the restaurant lately.

Upon entering Jai Thai for a quick bite of lunch, I wasn’t really even intending to write about it. But the food was so fresh and well prepared I couldn’t resist. It has three locations (Fremont and Northgate too), so it isn’t new to Seattle.

The service was efficient and friendly, even with a packed house. The value is there with reasonable prices. Most importantly, the food holds its own.

The fresh spring rolls ($5.25) were excellent, a combination of fried tofu, spinach, bean sprouts, cucumbers and carrots drizzled with a perfect hoisin sauce that was neither too sweet nor cloying. I sometimes find with spring rolls that the filled rice wrapper is great but the sauce is a deal-breaker because it is too thick or too overwhelming. Not so at Jai Thai. The spring rolls are a must-order as a starter.

Jai Thai has a number of good lunch special combos ($7.50), which allows you to taste a duo. I tried the gang gai (chicken curry served with jasmine rice) with vegetarian phud thai or pad thai. This chicken curry is prepared with bamboo shoots, but they also serve green curry prepared with eggplant and zucchini or yellow curry made with potatoes.

All curries can be prepared as mild or spicy as you would like. The curry was very tasty and the remaining sauce enjoyable over the rice, long after all of the chicken and bamboo shoots were among the missing. The pad thai was good enough — I’ve had better but also far worse.

In the world of Thai food there is no one dish that is more unique in terms of personal preference than pad thai, so I hesitate (unless it is poorly prepared) to criticize. As if to prove that point, someone else with me loved the pad thai. Don’t shy from ordering it.

Another tasty dish was the phud pak, which was a stir-fry of mixed vegetables (carrots, mushrooms, baby corn, broccoli, green beans, green onions) with an oyster sauce and a choice of meats. I chose tofu — a good choice. Not all tofus are created equal. This tofu was delicious, smooth, creamy and flavorful.

They have all classic the Thai dishes: satay, fish cakes, tom yum (hot and sour soup, cup $4.95, bowl $8), noodle dishes and a few salads. The place is not fancy but is comfortable with a sizable bar area. Jai Thai is available for private parties and claims to customize events for all occasions and budgets. Catering is available, which could be fun when you want to entertain at home but skip the cooking.

Jai Thai, 2132 First Avenue, Seattle, 206-770-7884

Hours: Lunch Mon. to Fri. 11 a.m. to 4 p.m.; Dinner 4 to 9:30 p.m. Mon. to Thur.; 4 to 10 p.m. Fri.; Lunch/Dinner Sat. Noon to 10 p.m.; Sun. Noon to 9:30 p.m. Other locations: Fremont, 3423 Fremont Ave. N, 206-632-7060 and Northgate, 543 NE Northgate Way, 206-632-3757. Service: Attentive, helpful. Noise: Conversation-friendly; Cards: All major.

Nora West is Evergreen Monthly’s dining critic. She lives and eats with pleasure in the Puget Sound area.

HEALTHY TO GO

The Flavors of Pike Work for Locals and Tourists Alike

Situation: Need to entertain out-of-town guests

Solution: Culinary trip to Pike Place Market

Everyone that comes to Seattle for a visit wants to go to Pike Place Market. As old-hat as it may be to all us, there is always something to find or explore that we didn’t see on the last visit.

I always tell out-of-town friends Pike Market is a tourist attraction, no doubt, but it is also a viable working market. In many parts of the country, that concept is hard to assimilate. A tourist trap has nothing to do with everyday life.

But at Pike, I tell people a summer Saturday is completely different from a rainy January morning when you can easily find parking and wander around to do your weekly shopping. I never tire of it, and always find something new.

For example, nestled in a little back courtyard is Sabra (1916 Pike Place, not far from the original Starbucks; 206-441-4544). Sabra is a Mediterranean café and an oasis of calm from the bustling market.

You can sit outside (or in) and partake of several varieties of Middle Eastern fare: hummus, falafel, taboulleh, combos, platters, and sandwiches, all prepared single-handedly (and well) by a very pleasant, affable woman. Sabra is the perfect place for a respite, getting your second wind for another round of shopping or just perusing all of the goodies. Fabulous olive oils, truffle oils, vinegars, breads, cheeses, flowers, wines, produce and fish abound. If you get tired, sit yourself down and have a cup of tea, a crab cocktail or a baklava.

On this recent day, my friends wanted something sweet yet moderately healthy. What better place than Cinnamon Works (206-583-0085)? The name is deceiving, but please, where else can you find wheat-free lemon blueberry muffins, vegan blueberry muffins, fat-free oatbran muffins, vegan cinnamon rolls and unfrosted cinnamon rolls (wheat-free too)? You can find vegan cookies galore: oatmeal, chocolate chip, etc.

Most importantly, you can pick up my absolute favorite gigantic pumpkin cookies. I love anything pumpkin and as fall creeps into the air, I seek out my pumpkin. Frosted or unfrosted, these cookies are the best in the world. Get on down there and indulge. Pike Market isn’t on the “1,000 Places to Visit Before You Die” list for nothing.

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