Conscious Choice Seattle: Urge to Splurge

October 2004 | Local Food

Urge to Splurge

Certain cuisines, including Indian, are made to order for dining out

by Nora West

Indian food is something I have never attempted to cook. When the urge for spicy curries or something from the clay oven strikes, I hit the streets.

My last Indian meal in Seattle left me disappointed, so while out running errands on a recent evening I deliberately sought out Sahib.

Sahib is located at the ferry dock, with a pleasant view of the water. The dining room is comfortable yet elegant, with many of the lovely requisite Indian touches. You get the distinct feeling the owner takes pride in his work and earnestly hopes patrons will be pleased by his efforts.

The rhythmic sound of Indian music lulls one into a relaxed state of mind. Quickly forgotten are the recent traffic jams and bluster of the day. As the music wafts through the air, stress seems to slip away.

Once we were ensconced in our seats, a basket of the thin wafer-like crackers called pappadum arrived, complete with two sauces.

We began our meal with vegetable samosas ($3.50), which were fine, and spinach pakora ($3.50), which was excellent. The pakora (some of the best I have ever eaten) was light and delicious with an almost tempura-like batter. Both were served with the same sauces mentioned above. One is a slightly sweet thin chutney, the other a spicier green minty offering. The sauces are integral to the three starters and work nicely.

We also chose a “kuchumber” salad ($3.50) that was fresh and flavorful. The combination of the usual ingredients-chopped tomatoes, cucumbers, lettuce and shredded beets-with the unusual dried mango dressing was a refreshing mixture.

Although I can be an adventurous eater, when it comes to Indian food I find myself again and again gravitating to the same classic dishes. For our main courses we chose spinach and yellow lentils (vegan, $10.50) and aloo gobi (vegan, $9.50), cauliflower and potatoes cooked with fresh coriander and tomatoes.

I normally look for dal, the thicker, richer version of the lentil dish. The spinach and lentils were not as perfect a consistency for dipping with naan as I relish. But then, that is one of my Indian-food guilty pleasures, so don’t mind me. This spinach-and-lentils dish was still plenty tasty and much more healthful.

The aloo gobi was good, with the right balance of spices. We also tried a chicken tikka masala ($11.95) that Sahib dubs the most famous dish in Indian cuisine. It consists of tender cubes of white meat cooked with a blend of spices and a rich, creamy, buttery sauce. Famous it might be, but decadent by most anyone’s standards and enjoyed by several at our table. One of our diners said he would have been happy to order a second and bring it home for the next night’s dinner.

There are tandoori choices, and several other vegetarian options such as saag paneer, okra masala or baigan bharta (roasted eggplant with tomatoes, green peas and spices). Each of the three dishes is $10.95.

Salmon curry ($13.95) is one of three regular seafood entrées. There are other chicken and lamb dishes in addition to a “flavors of the week” specials list. The list included many tempting selections, such as chana masala, garbanzo beans cooked in onion curry.

Sahib has a varied assortment of naan, including garlic, onion, potato and cashew, spinach and cheese and, on the special menu, gobi paratha, whole-wheat naan stuffed with cauliflower. Prices range from $1.95 to $3.95 for the more elaborate versions.

I, for one, like plain, unadulterated naan, whole wheat if possible. To me, naan is one of the most perfect foods on the planet in its simplicity and deliciousness. In Indian cooking there is such a myriad of flavors whizzing around the palate I think the less complicated the naan, the better.

That said, I could make an exception when a lighter meal is preferred, such as, say, a salad or lentil soup. Then one of the more involved naans would be delightful as a companion.

None of the food on our visit was overly spicy, though I’m sure it could be arranged if you like it hot. The fact that there are a couple of vindaloo choices on the menu suggests that Sahib can turn up the heat to hot and tangy anytime you like.

The restaurant has a full bar and offers several nonalcoholic choices too. I was surprised the place was not more crowded on a Tuesday night, but chalked it up to Edmonds’ already being finished with the night’s dining rush by 8 p.m.

Sahib serves a lunch buffet Monday through Saturday 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and a Sunday brunch. Dinner is served Monday to Sunday starting at 5 p.m. They served ferry food to go, with dishes including basmati rice and mango lassi.

The chef-owner writes that his passion is to provide traditional flavors yet meet today’s requirements for healthy eating. Sahib succeeds well at this difficult and noble endeavor. Many of the classics found in Indian cuisine are not often accused of being healthful, so for Indian food lovers out there like myself, Sahib offers the ability to have our cake and eat it too. Well, almost.

Sahib, 101 Main Street, Edmonds, 425-775-2828

Hours: Buffet lunch Mon. to Sat. 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.; Dinner Mon. to Sun. 5 to 9 p.m.; Sunday brunch 11:30 to 3 p.m. Service: Excellent, attentive; Noise: Conversation-friendly. Cards: All major.

TABLE TALK

Stating the Organic

The Ravenna neighborhood’s Sterling Café (2614 NE 55th St.) recently became the state’s first certified organic restaurant. Chef and owner Donald O. Wilson willingly took on extra time, expense and paperwork to achieve the status, which will require follow-up on-site inspections and annual review of the café’s “organic system plan.”

For those of us who love good and “clean” food, Wilson’s leadership is certainly welcome. It is pleasure to sit down at a restaurant knowing the food is carefully selected even before it is prepared.

What’s more, there appears to be no sacrifice in going organic at Sterling Café. Here are some of the menu offerings (online at www.sterlingcafe.net): Grilled ciabatta bread with spreadable roasted garlic, French onion soup, organic half-pound hand-formed hamburger (patty melt upon request), house-cured organic corned beef sandwiches, chicken penne with Danish blue cheese in a cream sauce, sausage frittata, organic pork chops, and-can you believe it?-organic beef liver with onions and bacon. Made-from-scratch desserts (yum) include brownies, homemade ice cream, chocolate mousse, coconut cream pie, carrot cake and lemon meringue pie.

Recommend this page to a friend

Top Ten pages recommended to friends: