Conscious Choice Seattle: Star Attraction

August 2004 | Local Food

Star Attraction

Variety and rarity highlight this delectable menu in Wallingford

by Nora West

An asteroid is a small body ranging in size from 480 miles to less than one mile in diameter that revolves around the sun in a region lying mostly between Mars and Jupiter. I could begin with the obvious out-of-this-world dining or extraterrestrial reference invoked by this café’s name, which indeed is the case. Or I could just call The Asteroid Café a superlative neighborhood spot that serves up “star-like” food.

It is not a large space, so it accomplishes all this with a great deal of grace and friendliness, considering the cozy quarters. Al Green classics waft through the air, making a very good start to a very good evening.

We began with bruschetta (typically $7.95), which changes based on seasonal availability. This night’s was a delicious purée of carrot, red pepper and Walla Walla onions; there was also a cannelini bean purée with garlic and lemon, similar to hummus.

For our seafood lovers, we ordered clams and mussels steamed with garlic, wine and tomatoes ($9.95, which were wonderfully fresh with a sauce so good we didn’t let it leave the table even when all of the shells were empty. The fresh bread here comes very thinly sliced — a nice touch, for it allows you to dip and taste without becoming too full (something I can be guilty of too often).

The Caesar salad ($5.95) was substantial and perfect for us, but there is also a spinach salad ($5.95) or grilled asparagus topped with a lightly fried organic farm-fresh egg ($8.95) for first-course options, along with the rarely sighted bagna cauda ($11.95). For the uninitiated, bagna cauda is a dip of roasted garlic, anchovy, olive oil and herbs served hot. Asteroid Café plates its version with fresh fennel, roasted artichoke leaves and organic radishes. I haven’t had this dish or seen it on a menu for years. Next visit I plan to try it.

There is a bountiful array of pastas — from the simple to the complex, and the light to very rich — all sounding delectable. We had a fettuccine with marinara that may sound boring compared to most of the other options, but it was melt-in-your-mouth flavorful. Penne with chicken, asparagus, fresh spinach, sun-dried tomatoes, parsley and basil in a white wine-butter sauce, all topped with fresh goat cheese ($13.95) sounded divine. I imagine, based on our fresh mussels and clams, that the linguine alla pescatora with clams, mussels, calamari and tiger prawns in a hearty tomato sauce ($15.95) is out of this world. (You see, I can’t help making the reference myself).

The night we dined at Asteroid Café, the kitchen had sold out a dish I will try next time called Pasta Incarta ai Carciofi ($13.95). It features spinach pasta sheets layered with roasted artichokes, Pecorino Romano cheese and lemon verbena-scented balsamella (béchamel). The fact that they were out of it already even though it wasn’t very late told me it is worth the pursuit.

We also ordered a Copper River salmon special ($20.95) with fresh baby turnips and a lemon-caper sauce. It paired the interesting vegetable with a classic sauce on delicious salmon for a winning combination.

We ordered an unusual vegetarian choice called Cece Piccino della Chianti ($17.95). Asteroid’s dish has organic artisan garbanzo beans from Tuscany sautéed with organic arugula, mustard greens and garlic scallions and served with a golden raisin-and-citrus gremolata. The taste is memorable and intense in a good way. The dish is showcased as an entrée, but would make a splendid side order or dish to share among several diners.

In the “always room for more” mode, we selected some desserts (typically $5.95 each) whether we needed them or not. The tiramisu was dense and addictive. Crème brûlée offered up the pleasant surprise of lemon, a hint of flavor in the creamy classic.

Asteroid Café has the kind of diverse menu and pleasant setting that satisfies everyone in your party. They offer full-bar service and dinner only. It supports local farmers and producers in the quest to be a delectable and responsible restaurant. Pay Asteroid a visit (reservations suggested, but you won’t be seated until the full party arrives) and I vouch you won’t be disappointed.

The menu has a small footnote under the “specialties of the house” section that reads, “The items change often. So if you like it, get it! It may be gone tomorrow.” Hurry over there, because sometimes it’s gone tonight.

The Asteroid Café, 1605 N. 45th Street, Seattle, 206-547-2514

Hours: Wed.-Thurs. 5:30 to 10 p.m.; Fri.-Sat. 5:30 to 11 p.m.; Sun. 5:30 to 10 p.m. Service: Attentive, friendly. Noise: Conversation-friendly on our weeknight visit. Cards: All major cards.

Nora West is Evergreen Monthly’s dining critic. She lives and eats with pleasure in the Puget Sound area.

Wake Up Our Tastebuds

Do you have a favorite “conscious eating” restaurant? Is there a place that supports locally grown food, organic farming and your palate? Tell us about your favorite items at your favorite restaurants. Fill us in on where you frequent for Healthy To Go items. Send your suggestions to the editor.

HEALTHY TO GO

A Healthy One Stop Picnic — and more

Situation: Needed provisions to prepare a picnic for out-of-town guests.

Solution: A brand-spanking-new storefront (only opened 10 days ago) caught my eye as I drove down 45th Street. Bella Cosa (1711 N 45th) is a specialty food store still gathering speed, but already they have a lovely selection of artisan cheeses, oils, honeys, teas, unique packaged pastas, wines, sauces, jams, some fresh bread and a nice selection of freshly prepared sandwiches.

I tried a goat cheese-basil-garlic spread that was delicious. The crackers here are unusual, including a pretty and mouth-watering sunflower-shaped one.

For those out-of-town guests, you can pick up one of the pancake mixes and some maple syrup.

Fresh olives and other goodies, such as more breads and sweets, are to follow soon. Bella Cosa has a pleasing array of cooking wares, utensils, linens, etc. Of course, no takeout gourmet dinner is complete without candles. You can find them here.

I diverted from my picnic mission and bought a new pastry brush. Stop in to check out the progress of owners Emily and Dan Newman — and have yourself a picnic.

— Nora West

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