Conscious Choice Seattle: Perchance to Daydream at Persimmon

June 2004 | Local Food

Perchance to Daydream at Persimmon

Syncopation, soups and sandwiches form a soothing combination

by Nora West

As I walked in the door of Persimmon the music stopped me first. I felt like I had stepped into an intimate club in Paris and a French vocalist was wooing me to take a seat. It was refreshing to feel soothed yet alive by sound when so often the volume or abrasive music an establishment chooses just doesn’t mix with dining.

I once heard a health practitioner note the beat of music should be in syncopation with our hearts for maximum health benefits. It this is true, it is probably most true when eating.

The next thing you notice about Persimmon is the inviting room. First, there is a comfortable counter area where a single or pair can happily sit. There are sizable tables that seat five, six or more and if not too busy are agreeably offered to smaller parties. The walls are a gorgeous tangerine (oops, I should say persimmon) color and loaded with interesting art.

The aroma of soups, grilled sandwiches and fresh ingredients greets you before the menu does. All this sensory pleasure hails one before the first delicious morsel is tasted. Persimmon uses locally grown produce and organic ingredients whenever possible and it shows.

The soup du jour was asparagus and it was scrumptious, cream-based but very light on the cream. If grilled sandwiches are an indulgence for you, this is the place to succumb. There is a nice selection of dreamy sandwiches. I tried the grilled cheese with Walla Walla sweet onions, Samish Bay Montosio cheese and local tomatoes, all grilled on Essential Baking Company Columbia bread (”jambon” [ham] can be added). Other grilled sandwiches include a Rueben (with homemade horseradish), Caprese and Spicy Coppa.

Persimmon serves French onion soup and list of other savory sandwiches and soups in the Fremont neighborhood. The Niçoise salad is as delightful to look at as it is to eat. Incorporating Papa George tuna, Niçoise olives, cherry tomatoes, haricots vert, fingerling potatoes and hard-boiled egg, all artfully displayed, it was wonderful.

The “Vegan” sandwich of grilled eggplant, asparagus, marinated tomatoes and white bean spread is equally delicious. Sandwiches are served with chips, potato salad, leeks vinaigrette (very nice) or a cup of soup. Another day the soup was three mushroom (shiitake, porcini and crimini). It is also vegan and refreshingly devoid of the thick creaminess of most mushroom soups.

If all of these gustatory treats aren’t enough, wait until you try a piece of Persimmon’s pie. We sampled a slice of raspberry/apple/rhubarb served warm with a dollop of whipped cream — oo la la. Even though one serving is enough to share, it doesn’t mean I will next time.

Beverages include great coffee, homemade lemonade, wine or beer. Persimmon is a lunch and brunch place transforming into something bigger. This month, it will begin serving dinner, so get excited. I certainly am.

Persimmon, 4256 Fremont Ave. N, Seattle, 206-632-0760

Hours: Lunch Tues. to Sat. 11:30 a.m. to 7 p.m.; Dinner (beginning June 1) Tuesday through Saturday 5:30 to 9:00 p.m.; Brunch Sun. 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. (the menu includes omelets, hashes, crepes and Niman Ranch BLTs). Service: Friendly. Noise: Fully accommodates conversation or deep thinking. Cards: V, MC, AE

HEALTHY TO GO

Sunny Side in Laurelhurst

SITUATION: Needed some takeout lunch and had been wanting to try this place.

SOLUTION: I cannot say enough about Sunrice’s takeout food. It deserves much more print than this brief spot, yet you’ll get the idea if you don’t already know about it. The menu changes each weekday but it is the same every week. So if you have a hankering for baked mackerel on Wednesdays you know where to find it. I had the Kimpap (Mondays) which is the Korean version of sushi sans fish, a seaweed rice roll with spinach, carrots, tofu and shiitake mushrooms served with miso soup and green salad.

I have tried the baked salmon (Thursdays) served with one of three sauces. I chose lemon-dill but the guy next to me in line opted for miso-carrot. The salmon comes with stir-fried vegetables, brown rice, green salad and Chapche (sweet potato noodles). I enjoyed the chicken in Sunrice sauce, which is available every day along with about a half dozen other dishes. Everything is fresh and delicious, and there are several side dishes available.

Sunrice ( 3513 N.E. 45th St. Ste. G, 206-841-2454, Laurelhurst * Weekedays only 11:30 a.m. -2:30 p.m.) does a brisk business and the owner knows many regulars and what they are going to order when they walk in the door. Tofu dishes seem to be a favorite. I heard it ordered “spicy” several times. If I roamed this part of the city daily I would be one of those regulars. As it is, I am planning a special trip for coconut curry chicken (Tuesdays).

— N.W.

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