Conscious Choice Seattle: No kidding: A great meeting place from soup to nutburger

May 2004 | Local Food

No kidding: A great meeting place from soup to nutburger

By Nora West

At first blush I thought Julia’s might be a bit pedestrian, with standard, ho-hum breakfast and lunch items. On closer examination during a recent lunch I realized it was more unique than I first thought. After we were situated at our table with expansive windows looking out to a pleasant Wallingford street, on a gorgeous April 1, I realized the joke was on me.

What fooled me, upon entering the door, were the diners eating toast with eggs and burger-like fare. There is that, but also much more. I ordered the made-on-the-premises nutburger ($6.95), which is quite good. Cashews, bulgur, sunflower seeds, seasoning (which I couldn’t place but hinted faintly of falafel—a positive in my mind) and a little egg for binder combine to make a nice consistency.

The nutburger is served on a homemade whole-wheat bun with lettuce, tomatoes and pickles but with the option to add lots of ingredients from a “build your own burger” list. Once I added my avocado and grilled onions, I had one satisfying and slightly messy sandwich.

But what good veggie burgers aren’t a little unwieldy? I’ve often felt that those of us who have given up hamburger but occasionally crave the taste (especially when barbecues start cranking and the enticing aroma wafts through the air) need only pile on the condiments, have the right formula (i.e. Julia’s nutburger), and a wholesome bun. We won’t feel deprived at all.
All burgers and sandwiches are served with French fries, which are just average. Fries are a splurge food for me, so I only eat them when they are unusually good. Next time I would ask for a substitution of fruit, which is served with select menu items.

My lunch mate ordered a sesame chicken salad ($8.95) made with wild greens, roasted almonds (sliced thin, which is a nice touch), sesame seeds, peppers and sliced grilled chicken breast. It was served with homemade bread and a sweet-sour dressing. In my mind, when I hear “sweet-sour dressing,” I conjure thoughts of that thick, sweet sauce used for dipping eggrolls.

Fooled again. It was delicious, of thin, light consistency (possibly a mixture of tamari and sesame oil, though our server wasn’t sure). It was a perfect complement to a fresh salad.
The menu has good vegetarian choices such as a portabella burger, a black bean burrito in a whole wheat tortilla, pasta and a cashew/tofu stirfry that looked and smelled wonderful as it passed our table. Two homemade soups of the day, one spinach and orzo, were tempting. Also, there were two different quiches, both made with whole-wheat crusts.

Now, really, how often do you find a quiche made with whole-wheat crust?

At the time of this writing, I have not eaten dinner at Julia’s (either here in Wallingford or the restaurant’s two other locations in the Broadway neighborhood and Issaquah). But I would not hesitate to do so.

Lunch patrons varied from individuals quietly reading a book, couples enjoying each other and the open windows, people sitting outside on a stunning day, a group of seniors catching up on personal news, even a few mothers with their babies. Cool art on the walls, a comfortable setting, fresh food and attentive service all make for a good meeting spot.

The menu boasts, “wholesome food & wildly good times.” Lunch on this day was definitely more serene than wild. That’s why I have to go back for dinner.

Healthy to Go

Situation: In Julia’s eating lunch and noticed there is an adjoining bakery/takeout counter. Need something to take to a breakfast meeting the next day.

Solution: I spot some delectable-looking coffeecake. The hunch pays off, reminding me of my grandma’s homemade Irish sour cream coffeecake, which I adored as a kid. There is a nice selection of vegan cookies, including a peanut butter cookie that is flavorful but not too sweet. It’s also a counter for a healthy drink to quench your thirst this spring or summer. —N. W.

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